“Think positive thoughts.” These are the encouraging words
of advice from our travel agent when we leave Hua Hin (is encouraging the right
word?) as we venture to the train station for our overnight trip to south
Thailand.

We aren’t alone – our friends and their three kids accompany
us. The kids are already on edge as it’s past their bedtime (heck, it’s past
mine!). We thought we’d put ourselves at a disadvantage from the start to make
it more interesting.
After a half hour drive, we arrive at the train station and
find some friends of ours who should have left an hour before us. Think
positive thoughts. Turns out they booked their tickets for the right day but
the wrong month. They end up on a hard seat train that arrives soon after we
do. We debate which is worse – a ticket snafu that means you have to pay
through the nose to take a different flight to Thailand or one that forces you
to sit upright for 12 hours through the night? It’s a toss up.
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Train hopper |
We’re immediately told that our train is delayed 20 minutes.
That doesn’t sound so bad, until 20 minutes after the original departure time
and there’s still no train. A worker tells us it will be another 20 minutes.
When another 20 minutes passes, a bell rings and we gleefully assume this means
the train will arrive soon so we move down the track to where we predict our
car will be. After another 10 minutes sans train, the same worker comes down to
talk to us. I decide that if he tells us it will be another 20 minutes, I am
going to push him onto the tracks. (wait, no, think positive thoughts). We
can’t really make heads or tails of what he says – something about not the
other track – except that he predicts another 10 minutes. Congratulations my
friend, you get to live.
The “other track” comment is regarding the slow moving train
that arrives on the other track within minutes. It’s a hard seat train. We’re
happy to wait for ours, which arrives about an hour after originally scheduled.
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A house near a train station |
Finally on board, we climb into our beds that are flush
against the windows. I can’t say I sleep well, because as I’ve mentioned before
I am genetically predisposed to not sleeping well anywhere other than prone in
a dark, quiet, comfortable room. The lights, noise, and rocking of the train
jolt me many times but I’m happy to say I feel rested in the morning.
I know it’s morning because the people in the next berth
loudly disassemble their beds and open their windows. I had no idea that was
possible so I’m glad to see it. For the next 5 hours we watch the Thai
countryside pass by and stop in various small towns to let people off. At one
stop I take a picture of a woman crossing the tracks and then realize she just
hopped the train.

When we arrive in Trang, our driver is a little anxious.
He’s supposed to pick someone up at our hotel at 3:30. It’s 12 already and it’s
a 3 hour drive without stops. He and his companion inform us we can eat at the
7/11. We inform them that we would really rather stop and eat substantially.
The two of them chatter in Thai. It sounds nice, but we imagine they are a
little annoyed with us. Think positive thoughts.
By the time we find a place to stop, Ethan is green in the
gills from our driver trying to make up lost time in the winding hills of south
Thailand. The driver keeps trying to offer him food, seeing that he’s not
eating. The extent of my Thai is, “hello”, “thank you” and “money” so I can’t
find the vocabulary to say, “Your crazy driving has made all food unpalatable
to my poor son” which is maybe just as well. I point to my stomach and say “no
good.”

Back in the car the driver manages to make more of us sick
and not just a little frightened. We debate which is worse – him trying to
cross double yellow lines around a curve to pass people, or driving close
enough to the people in front of us that we could actually jump into their
cars? Think positive thoughts that don’t involve dying on the back roads of
Thailand.
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Erik buying our lunch |
After two short ferry rides which we traverse sitting in the
van, and one final terrifying drive through the jungle we arrive at our destination,
Koh Lanta, alive and ready to enjoy the tropics. See, that wasn’t so bad! It
must have been all those positive thoughts.
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